Settling into the Galapagos

Well, the diving didn’t work out last time, but on Monday I hit the jackpot!  Dolphins joined us on our way to Floreana, the sea was mild and welcoming, and after a very long safety discussion, we finally got wet and saw white-tipped reef sharks, hammerheads, octopus, neon orange puffers, barracuda, eels, tons of turtles, lots of colorful reef fish,  impressive (and large) coral, and much more.  The safety briefing included nothing about the sweeping current that took us out to sea, but apparently the captain was aware, because he met us where we surfaced.  My leaky regulator was also not one of the topics of discussion.  I notified the dive-master that air was whistling out of the tank behind my head.  “Todo esta bien” came the reply. 

We made a second dive in only 5 meter visibility with a strong surge.  Not as good as the first dive but again we saw sharks, turtles, fish.  Plus, it was wonderful to be able to be out on the ocean.    

My Sunday started with a sermon at a store where I stopped to buy some water.  I was heading up to Bella Vista, where I had spent two days waiting out the tsunami and part of the night watching the sick baby (who has been discharged from the hospital!).  This time I was riding my bike up for a little exercise and to see the lava tubes (2^nd largest in S. America – the largest are also here in the Galapagos but off-limits to tourists). 



Lava tubes



“God provides everything,” came the response when I asked the store owner how he had come to the Galapagos.  He had left family behind, and came out to work about 10 years ago.  He seemed lonely, and the little store wasn’t much even by Galapaguenan standards.  Turned out he just worked there; it wasn’t his store.  He only thing he seemed to have in abundance was faith.

Later that day, I got a tour of the Lava tubes with one of the daughters of the original owners of the land.  A very pleasant, thoughtful lady, she was happy and thankful to be living in the Galapagos.  I asked her why they didn’t grow anything on their finca (ranch) which was at least 2 km in one direction, as it contained at least that length of lava tube.  “Easier to do tourism,” she replied.  

We talked about the tsunami and the crisis in Japan, the middle-east, the U.S. (We had plenty of time to chat; it’s the 2^nd longest lava tube in S. America!).  “Do you believe in God?” she asked.  An unusual question in a Catholic country where most people don’t fathom atheism.   I tried to make a distinction between spirituality and religion, and was mumbling about the infamous role of the Catholic church in the Spanish conquest of the Americas when she said, “I don’t know... All this suffering and these people killing each other, it’s hard to believe that there’s anyone watching out for us.”  But then we agreed that the problems in the world were all the more reason to appreciate the peace and tranquility of the Galapagos. 

 



Santa Cruz Cactus



Last night I had to sit through some very disturbing news from the U.S. about immigration and intolerance while my Ecuadorian host family was watching.  From here it looks like we are a country full of people who have forgotten their own immigrant roots...

Construction special:

After my years in the industry I couldn’t resist.  Ecuador in general and the Galapagos specifically have some novel approaches to building.  



Great use for old tires





don't grope for this switch in the dark



Don't even ask me about screens!





a busy light-pole



This is the roof/ceiling of my kitchen. 

Yes, that’s a hole in the roof. 

Yes, those are bare wires





typical houses; the unfinished roof is
kind of like our unfinished basements



it's a great sidewalk, just watch your step!



 

random dome house




A beautiful, finished home

Some of my favorite things: uncovered manholes, spotty internet and electricity, empty taxi trucks endlessly trolling the streets (apparently gas is too cheap down here), a complete lack of personal protective equipment for workers (we had a worker hospitalized yesterday from insecticide poisoining), mixing concrete in a hole (not exactly government specs).

And speaking of construction, what we're building down here, despite all the challenges and madness, feels really good.  We are getting involved in peoples’ lives and helping them to make positive changes.  Tonight, I finished work at the hospital and headed up to the stadium, where other ICE volunteers were conducting an exercise class.  We had 25-30 people, walking, running, stretching.  We wrapped up with the sun setting on us while we played frisbee, laughing and making new friends.  Many of them we will see tomorrow in our clinic, and counsel them about nutrition, weight loss, perhaps other health concerns.  Hopefully ICE will continue to evolve with the community and help to transform lives.